Luxury train reveals India's contradictions By Daniela David

dpa German Press Agency
Published: Monday November 6, 2006

By Daniela David, Mumbai- Many romantics dream of travelling by luxury train be it the Orient Express or the South African Blue Train or the Palace on Wheels in India's state of Rajasthan. But travellers should also consider the Deccan Odyssey, which rolls through Maharaja, a large state in the west of the subcontinent that can be explored by rail in eight days.

An unending sea of humanity seems to rule in Bombay's Victoria Terminus where the train begins its journey. Throngs of people push through the station, which is a daily transit point for millions of commuters. Families sit on the floor of the domed building waiting for their train. Over and again someone suddenly pushes his own path through the throng. Anyone not paying attention is bound to be jostled.

The blue train pulls slowly into the station, and men in turbans lay red carpets on the platform. Every car of the Deccan Odyssey has its own name and its own housekeeper or steward. In the Sindhudurg wagon, named after a city south of Bombay, Hindole Biswas takes care of the passengers.

"Welcome aboard," he says, greeting his guests in English.

Bombay, which was renamed Mumbai a few years ago, is home to the largest film industry in the world. The so-called Bollywood films are playing everywhere including the train's video screen every evening.

But out the window there's another film playing. The train passes endless suburbs, offering passengers a glimpse into the lives of a few people living in tiny huts near the train tracks and their children, who play in the dirt. This is where luxury races past poverty.

"Madam, please follow me," said Hindole, showing the way to the tea lounge. On board is a restaurant, a breakfast and a television room, a spa and fitness wagon plus a business wagon. Almost everything the heart desires has been included.

"This is not a historical train, rather it has been newly constructed to meet the needs of today's traveller," said Sajivve Trehaan of the company The Luxury Trains, which operates the publicly owned Deccan Odyssey for Maharaja.

As the train pulls into Bhoke train station near Rai Jetee the next day, passengers disembark to the sound of drums. Women hang floral wreaths around the necks of the arriving passengers and place a red dot on their forehead.

"Atithi Devo Bhava," says tour guide Anil Joglekar. "That's the slogan of Maharaja meaning "Guests are like Gods to us."

Tourists get closer to the real Indian Gods at Ganesha Temple in Ganapatipule. Visitors bringing flowers to the temple appear fully absorbed. Two women shape a pile of rice on the floor into Hindu symbols and meditate.

Back on the train heading southward, the view of the Konkan coast is of seemingly endless beaches. The coastal area has hardly been touched by tourism. The few vacationers in the resort hotels keep to themselves, alone with the sand, sun and sea as if in a post card paradise.

At daybreak Hindole knocks on the door to saying "Good Morning." Five minutes later, morning tea is served - a popular ritual among passengers.

At the Malvan Harbour, small boats take tourists to a maritime fortress called Sindhudurg. The 18th century structure takes up the entire island. From Tarkali Beach, tourists can travel upriver where palms dot along the river banks as far as the eye can see.

This is nature pure and it is empty of houses and towns. Foreigners rarely visit the markets in the small inland communities. Merchants selling vegetables, spices and chicken line the streets.

To the south lies Goa. The train makes its way across the state of Karnataka and then turns northward to Maharaja. The landscape appears arid and mountainous. Just before the last destination, the train heads to the state's cultural highlight - the 63 cave temples in Ellora and Ajanta near Aurangabad. Wall paintings deep in the caves tell of the incarnation of Buddha. They are the world's oldest Buddhist cave temples.

For more information, check www.india-tourism.com

© 2006 dpa German Press Agency