Kerala is a haven of coconuts and cardamom By Bernd Kubisch

dpa German Press Agency
Published: Monday October 16, 2006

By Bernd Kubisch, dpa = Kochi, India­ A woman wearing a golden-red sari rushes from her home which is set amid coconut trees. She waves. At the same time, the bell of the wooden ferry boat sounds, the helmsman turns the ferry moves towards the shore. The driver reduces speed by casually pressing his big toe against the throttle.

The woman reaches the pier, gathers her sari together and gets on board. Then the ferry makes its way through the backwaters, a network of countless canals, lagoons and small rivers in Kerala, one of India's smallest states.

Kerala is located on the Arabian Sea in the south-west of the sub- continent. Thanks to its diverse landscape, cultural heritage and good tourist infrastructure, it is one of the most popular destinations for holidaymakers to India.

The region is characterised by spice production, tiger reserves, rice paddies, elephants, mountains as well as its coconut, coffee and tea plantations.

The ferry journey from Alapphuza to Kottaya takes two and a half hours and costs 10 rupees ­ about 20 euro cents. Rays from the evening sun cause the surface of the lake and paddy fields to sparkle.

Three Italian backpackers and a couple from London are also on board. Most of the other 40 passengers are locals returning home from work or shopping.

The ferry passes by tropical green vegetation, small barges, groups of fishermen and houseboats. Cattle graze on lush grass growing on the shore. Women hang their washing out to dry as men repair their nets. Children splash about in the water.

A bus takes three and a half days to make the 110 kilometre trip from Kottayam to Kumily and Periyar Park. For some of the inclines and hairpin bends, the driver has to put the bus into first gear. He stops the bus every time someone waiting on the roadside hails him down.

Most of the mountainsides are covered by the green of coffee plantations. In some places, the smell of spice hangs in the air. Plantation owners attract customers through the aroma of cinnamon, cardamom, coriander, anise, ginger and pepper.

If you take a trip through Periyar Park guided by a local, you might come across the paw print of a tiger. Fifty tigers are believed to live here.

Most of the visitors to the park prefer the boat trip across the lake. All the passengers turn their heads simultaneously to the right and 50 index fingers point to a hilltop where two elephants stand motionless. Apes, wild boar, deer and cormorants are also at home here.

The view from the Taj Malabar, five hours away by car in Kochi, is spectacular. Kochi itself is a city of islands and waterways. The best hotel in the city is on Willingdon Island where rooms start at 120 euros (150 dollars).

From the fifth floor, guests can gaze out across fishing boats, the high-rise blocks in the city's new district of Ernakulam on the mainland, Kochi's old fort and the former Jewish quarter of Mattacherry.

The old synagogue is visited by up to 1,000 tourists daily. Near the ruins of the old fort is a Franciscan monastery. It was here that in 1524 Vasco de Gama, the explorer who discovered the sea route to India, was buried. Internet: www.keralatourism.com, www.india- tourism.com.

© 2006 dpa German Press Agency